Exploring hidden
Massachusetts
Small but dense with local – and national – interest, the East Coast state is rich with Founding Fathers’ history, classy modern culture and spools of serene nature beyond the ever-popular leaf-peeping trails
Ask most Americans about Massachusetts and they talk about Boston, Cape Cod and the islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. And its leading role in the founding of the nation: the Pilgrim Fathers’ landing 400 years ago and the start of the American Revolution. But there’s much more to this state than history.
At only 240km wide, Massachusetts may be one of America’s smallest states, but few places are denser with things to see and do. Its Atlantic coastline is a natural playground, with broad sandy beaches and every kind of water sport. To the west, the rolling Berkshire Hills are perfect for hiking, biking and communing with Mother Nature. In between is farmland, with back roads leading to picture-perfect villages. Think cosy taverns, historic homes and the white spire of a church spiking up to the deep blue sky.
Massachusetts has long been on the foodie map. The bounty of farmers’ markets ranges from orchard fruits to 100 types of artisan cheese. Beer and cider fans can compare and contrast the 80 craft breweries and cideries. As for seafood, that comes straight from the briny. Stop at a ‘clam shack’, a simple seashore eatery, for lobster, clam chowder and corn on the cob. But save room for ice-cream – the home-made variety. Slurp fresh peach, good old-fashioned vanilla, ‘Sea Turtle’ and ‘Deer Tracks’.
And you’re never far from a museum, art gallery or living history attraction. Some are world-famous; others are smaller, telling a local tale. Wherever you are in Massachusetts, there’s something special close by, just waiting to be discovered.
Highlights of Massachusetts
THE BERKSHIRES
Top-notch culture and natural beauty: the partnership is perfect. Who wouldn’t want to listen to concerts outdoors on a balmy evening? Tanglewood is the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, but the wooded Berkshire Hills are alive to more than the sound of music. Also in Lenox, Shakespeare & Company performs plays indoors and out; nearby, Becket draws international companies to the Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival. Further north, the Williamstown Theatre Festival is a showcase for stars of stage and screen. For all these, the main programmes run from late-spring to autumn, but the arts thrive year-round in the Berkshires.
Viewers in the alfresco lawn seating enjoy a concert at Tanglewood Ozawa Hall (Alamy)
Viewers in the alfresco lawn seating enjoy a concert at Tanglewood Ozawa Hall (Alamy)
Check out what’s new in the visual and performing arts at Mass MoCA (Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art) in North Adams. For contrast, see French masters like Renoir, Monet and Degas – as well as the American-in-Europe, John Singer Sargent – at the Clark Art Institute in Williamstown. Beyond the galleries, the bistros, B&Bs and shops – ranging from posh to quirky – only add to the artistic atmosphere. But do as the locals do: call them the ‘Burk-shers’.
THE NORTH SHORE & CAPE ANN
Beaches and rocky outcrops; coves and harbours; terrific museums and whales at play: that is the North Shore and Cape Ann, the long coastline north-east of Boston. Start in Marblehead, a posh yachting centre, where grand old mansions reflect the trading wealth of 200 years ago. In Salem, once the main seaport, the Peabody Essex Museum offers collections of ‘souvenirs’ brought back by sea captains from Africa, Asia, Oceania and more. But Salem has a dark side: the gruesome witch trials held here in the 17th-century.
Autumn arrives at Annisquam Harbor, Cape Ann (alamY)
Autumn arrives at Annisquam Harbor, Cape Ann (alamY)
Out on Cape Ann, Gloucester’s busy waterfront matches a commercial fishing fleet with sleek whale-watching boats. But America’s oldest seaport is also its oldest art colony. Find out about painters like Edward Hopper and Winslow Homer on the Rocky Neck Historic Art Trail. Smaller, and totally charming, is another creative hub, Rockport – an old dock, a red fishing shack and light playing on the water: this scene has inspired a long line of artists and photographers. Join them.
THE CONNECTICUT RIVER VALLEY
New England’s longest river is the Connecticut, which runs north-south straight through Massachusetts. By 1700, Europeans had settled the valley’s fertile farmland. Their story – and that of their Native American neighbours – is told in Historic Deerfield. Here, a dozen lovingly-preserved houses, plus the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, depict their lives, with handsome furniture, elegant clothes and farm tools. Back then, rivers were transport highways; now, some provide adventures, such as white-water rafting on the Deerfield River.
The Connecticut River at dawn as seen from South Sugarloaf Mountain in Deerfield (AWL Images)
The Connecticut River at dawn as seen from South Sugarloaf Mountain in Deerfield (AWL Images)
For contrast, visit Amherst, whose youthful buzz typifies an American ‘college town’. It also has two delightful museums: one devoted to the 19th-century poet, Emily Dickinson; the other celebrating Eric Carle, author of The Very Hungry Caterpillar.
For urban pleasures, such as cafés, boutiques and galleries, head for Northampton, nicknamed ‘Noho’. But save time for Springfield, the birthplace of basketball. Watch videos, take selfies and shoot three pointers at the Basketball Hall Of Fame. Then chuckle your way round the Amazing World of Dr Seuss Museum, enjoying the witty rhymes of local hero Theodor Geisel, aka Dr Seuss.
franklincc.org; visithampshirecounty.com; explorewesternmass.com
Things to do in Massachusetts
Fall foliage
Autumn is spectacular. Warm days followed by crisp nights flip a switch, turning a gazillion leaves to scarlet and gold, purple and orange. Avoid the hordes of ‘leaf peepers’ by travelling midweek and basing yourself in the country; then hike or bike. Explore back roads, such as the Western Massachusetts Scenic Byways. Route 116 takes in small towns, wooden covered bridges, Savoy Mountain State Forest (for hiking trails) and Adams, where the Berkshire Scenic Railway runs foliage train trips.
Appalachian Trail 7
One of the world’s most famous hiking routes, the Appalachian Trail runs for 3,500 kilometres down the eastern United States. Some 150km are in the Berkshires. You don’t have to do it all: highlights include 1,064m Mount Greylock, the state’s highest point. Walk on and around the mountain; drive to the summit and follow paths. Clear-day views stretch for 150km.
Living history
Stepping back in time is easy, educational and fun in Massachusetts. South of Boston, Plimoth Patuxet Museums is a time machine like no other. Board Mayflower II, a full-scale reproduction of the small, cramped ship that sailed to the New World in 1620. Then tour the Pilgrim Settlers’ Village and ask costumed interpreters about life in the 17th century. Of course, Native Peoples were here already. Learn about their traditions at the Patuxet Homesite. Fast forward to the 1830s at Old Sturbridge Village, near Worcester. Cooks and carpenters, farmers and blacksmiths demonstrate their skills in this community of historic homes and shops, a bank, a schoolhouse and more.
Whale watching
A shadow in the water; a few ripples; then a 36,000kg humpback whale breaches, leaping out of the ocean. Visitors can watch these marine giants from April to October; they can be found feeding – along with minke and fin whales – just off the Massachusetts coast, one of the world’s best locations for spotting marine mammals. Take a cruise from Gloucester, Provincetown, Barnstable, Boston or Plymouth. The best have a naturalist on board. Pack sunscreen, an extra layer of clothing and be sure your camera is charged.
Need to know information
Getting there: Boston’s Logan International Airport (BOS) welcomes daily non-stop flights from the UK. Major airlines include British Airways, American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic.
Getting around: No car is needed in Boston, as the city has the ‘T’ public transport system. Rent cars when leaving town; use the PlatePass (E-ZPass MA) electronic toll payment, as many highways are now all-electronic or have cashless toll collection lanes.
Deals: When doing the sights In Boston, consider the CityPASS® or Go Boston All Inclusive Pass.
Accommodation: Special places to stay in Boston range from the 110-year-old grande dame Fairmont Copley Plaza to the contemporary Inn @ St. Botolph and Verb, a retro rock ‘n’ roll motel. In the Berkshires, The Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge offers 250 years of history. In North Adams, TOURISTS combines a funky motor lodge vibe with 21st century art. In the Connecticut Valley, The Deerfield Inn links 19th-century charm with modern practicality. The Trustees of Reservations has two historic accommodations: The Inn at Castle Hill on the North Shore and The Guest House at Field Farm, Williamstown. New England Inns & Resorts lists characterful abodes, all carefully vetted.
NB: In foliage season, advance booking is essential; a two-night min is standard.
Official site: visitma.com
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