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British Columbia, Canada

ALONG RAINFOREST TO ROCKIES

Insider tips for visiting British Columbia...

There’s no one definitive journey to take, but considering BC from a thematic perspective is a great way to choose your unique journey.

If you think of yourself as a real outdoor adventurer, then heading north from Vancouver to the vast Howe Sound Biosphere Region is a great start. Pass through the charming ski chalets of Whistler and by Lillooet’s picturesque rugged elements, before spotting bears and moose in Wells Gray Park near the peak of Mount Robson to finish.

There’s some magnificent gastronomy to be found in this diverse province too, so foodies should make the most of Vancouver’s fine Michelin-starred restaurants and the smorgasbord of bites available from Granville Island’s Public Market. Sample some excellent BC wines from the Okanagan Valley as you journey east into the Rockies.

Indigenous stories run deep in BC, so if you’re an inquisitive type then a trip along the Crowsnest Highway could be perfect. Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology places special emphasis on Canada’s diverse First Nations peoples, while a ride out to the Harrison River Valley delves into the legend of the mysterious Sasquatch, with much more waiting beyond.

Wells Gray Provincial Park (Destination BC/Andrew Strain), Whistler (Tourism Whistler/Justa Jeskova)

Wells Gray Provincial Park (Destination BC/Andrew Strain), Whistler (Tourism Whistler/Justa Jeskova)

Journey 1

North to Mount Robson

The Sea to Sky Highway is an evocative name for good reason. From the glassy waters beneath Vancouver’s Lions Gate Bridge to the snowy peaks of Whistler and beyond, Highway 99 is the ideal route for adventurous types.

Begin in Vancouver, where hiring a bike to tour the lush expanse of Stanley Park is a special start to a unique journey. The 10km seawall loop is an easy meandering escape that switches its gaze from the city’s shimmering skyline to Vancouver Island’s hazy silhouette in the far distance, as low-flying seaplanes hum overhead. Take it all in from sandy beaches like English Bay or get even closer to nature by renting a kayak.

As a base for enjoying the city, stay at the newly opened AZUR Legacy Collection Hotel, an art-deco boutique hotel exuding a sense of humble luxury with marble bathrooms and soothing soaker tubs.

Leaving BC’s largest city behind, the journey north then passes by Howe Sound, a spectacular UNESCO-designated Biosphere Region. Highway 99 hugs the mainland coast and there are several viewpoints along the way, including the Porteau Cove Road Lookout, where the water, islands, mountains and sky all stack behind each other to form a beautiful, layered scene.

Continuing north past huge glaciers and distant mountain summits, the road passes through arguably Canada’s most famous winter resort: Whistler. But while skiing is an obvious draw in the winter, there’s a host of breathtaking activities available throughout the year. Whether it’s black bear viewing tours that start near Whistler Village Gondola or ziplining above Fitzsimmons Creek, Whistler is a feast for the outdoors purist.

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Whistler, Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Tourism Whistler/Justa Jeskova)

Whistler, Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Tourism Whistler/Justa Jeskova)

Squamish, Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Destination BC/Hubert Kang)

Squamish, Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Destination BC/Hubert Kang)

Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Destination BC/Patrice Halley)

Vancouver, Coast & Mountains (Destination BC/Patrice Halley)

Highway 99 dates to the 1940s, but the St’at’imc First Nation people have lived in the area around Lillooet for thousands of years, so drop by the town and join Xwisten Experience Tours for an eye-opening Indigenous tour of their fishing grounds and replica pithouse (S7istken).

After Lillooet, the landscape opens up into Marble Canyon Park’s widescreen valleys, where its unusual limestone cliffs provide a unique backdrop for everything from padding crystalline lakes to camping under the stars.

Turn off Highway 99 and pass through vibrant Kamloops on the way to the sublime Wells Gray Park. This hidden wilderness playground is home to volcanic plateaus, deep canyons and dramatic waterfalls, including the 463ft-high Helmcken Falls.

This journey ends in grandiose fashion with a visit to the mighty Mount Robson, the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

Journey 2

Along the Trans-Canada Highway

With the introduction of the Michelin Guide to Vancouver in 2022, the city attained a lofty new status in food circles with nine restaurants being awarded a coveted Michelin star, but this is a city with a long gastronomic tradition.

From the enticing ramen joints of Kitsilano to downtown’s fine dining, there’s plenty to sink your teeth into, but make sure to stop off at Granville Island Public Market while you’re at it. This vibrant indoor market is full of fresh fish, colourful produce and delicate pastries to taste.

Vancouver (Destination Vancouver/Albert Normandin)

Vancouver (Destination Vancouver/Albert Normandin)

As you drive east of Vancouver, the landscape flattens out and morphs in the Fraser Valley – better known as BC’s orchard for its abundant veggie and potato production. Passing by roadside fruit stalls and dense vegetable patches, it’s a charming corner of Canada. Then the valley begins to rise again and the splendid town of Hope sits at the bottom of a canyon surrounded by forested hills.

It’s a pretty spot to find a quaint café for lunch before swapping your four wheels for two and cycling a portion of the Kettle Valley Rail Trail.

These canyons reach a dramatic climax at Hell’s Gate, where the towering rock walls of the Fraser River plunge toward each other, forcing the waters through a passage only 35m wide. Take the bright red Hells Gate Airtram cable car right overhead for the most glorious views.

Vancouver (Destination Vancouver/Capilano Suspension Bridge Park)

Vancouver (Destination Vancouver/Capilano Suspension Bridge Park)

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Ktunaxa elder in Cranbrook (Destination BC/Kari Medig)

Ktunaxa elder in Cranbrook (Destination BC/Kari Medig)

Yoho National Park (Destination BC/Paul Zizka)

Yoho National Park (Destination BC/Paul Zizka)

Cranbrook (Destination BC/Kari Medig)

Cranbrook (Destination BC/Kari Medig)

To make the most of the delicious produce found along the Trans-Canada Highway, spend an evening in vibrant Kamloops sampling rieslings and chardonnays from the local Monte Creek Winery, before heading to nature-fuelled Salmon Arm. As calm as the name suggests, the city is home to Shuswap Lake, a bird sanctuary and hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails.

Then continue on to Mount Revelstoke National Park, in the Kootenay Rockies, where you’ll climb higher into the Meadows in the Sky Parkway. Meandering 26km uphill, this elevated road snakes through handsome forests of cedar and fir and up into the park’s renowned subalpine wildflower meadows.

As dramatic as its name suggests, the alpine vistas of Glacier National Park take this journey to a towering new level. Established in 1886, the park encompasses 1,349sq km of yawning forest and snow-capped peaks, and don’t miss the chance to stop at Rogers Pass, which is the second-highest point along the Trans-Canada Highway.

Finish this epic ride across BC on the western slopes of the Continental Divide of the Americas at Yoho National Park. The word Yoho is a Cree expression of amazement or awe, and there’s no finer journey’s end than watching Chancellor Peak soar ever skyward or witnessing the thundering cascade of the Takakkaw Falls with your own eyes.

Mount Revelstoke National Park (Destination BC/Ryan Creary)

Mount Revelstoke National Park (Destination BC/Ryan Creary)

Journey 3

Crowsnest Highway 3 to the Canadian Rockies

The First Nations of the Northwest Coast lived and roamed the area now known as Vancouver for thousands of years before it grew into the metropolis of today, so start by taking in Indigenous artwork at The Museum of Anthropology (due to reopen in June 2024).

Located out on Vancouver’s windswept west coast at University of British Columbia, there’s a host of local Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh heritage to explore, as well as 9,000 objects from around the world housed inside the Multiversity Galleries.

Museum of Anthropology (Destination BC/Kevin Arnold)

Museum of Anthropology (Destination BC/Kevin Arnold)

It’s time now to head east and watch as the urban environment along the Trans-Canada Highway becomes a sea of green pastoral scenes approaching the Fraser Valley. But the landscape changes again as low mists form beneath rolling hills of pine and cedar, with the evocative Harrison River Valley taking shape.

Head up to Harrison Hot Springs and unwind in the mineral waters at the Public Mineral Pool, on land revered as the “healing place” by the local Sts’ailes First Nation people for generations. But don’t forget that this is also Sasquatch country, so pay a visit to the new Sasquatch Museum and keep your eyes out for this mysterious and shadowy figure.

In fact, you might see him on the short 20-minute Spirit Trail, where the lush cedar forests are decorated by 50 weird and wonderful masks by local artist Ernie Eaves.

Then continue east and jump on Crowsnest Highway 3 toward EC Manning Park, where you can admire both wet coastal rainforests and jagged snow-capped peaks from one viewpoint. Soak in displays of subalpine flowers across the park’s gentle meadows in summer, but also look out for the wild pink rhododendrons at Rhododendron Flats.

Further east, the Similkameen Valley is the ancestral territory of the Similamix and Smelqmix peoples, and it’s a fine spot to set up a tent and spend a night riverside camping under the stars.

Cawston, Similkameen Valley (Destination BC/Hubert Kang)

Cawston, Similkameen Valley (Destination BC/Hubert Kang)

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Kelowna (Destination BC/Andrew Strain)

Kelowna (Destination BC/Andrew Strain)

Okanagan Falls (Destination BC/Patrice Halley)

Okanagan Falls (Destination BC/Patrice Halley)

Cathedral Provincial Park (Destination BC/Johan Lolos)

Cathedral Provincial Park (Destination BC/Johan Lolos)

The spectacular Okanagan Valley is home to 86% of the province’s vineyards. With the wine and lush scenery came expert chefs who’ve made use of the valley’s agricultural bounty to offer seasonal, sustainable menus. Head to Naramata Inn or Quails’ Gate Winery’s Old Vines restaurant to treat your taste buds to Okanagan’s incredible produce.

The Okanagan Valley's fertile lands are fruitful for producing more than just wines; take the time to visit Vernon's Cambium Cidery. A family orchard priding itself on organic production, the cidery also offers a newly launched restaurant and an impressive selection of branch-to-bottle artisan ciders.

The drive down the western slopes of the Okanagan Valley into Osoyoos is mesmerising. The desert-like shrub steppe begins to share space with pristine lakes and rows of flourishing vineyards. And speaking of wine, this region is home to almost 200 wineries, many of which tell fascinating stories. One of the most interesting is Nk’mip Cellars, which is North America’s first Indigenous-owned winery and also runs both tours and tastings.

Stay at the beautifully perched Spirit Ridge Resort to learn about the heritage of the Osoyoos Indian Band and to sample their wonderful wines. Venture onwards to the Kootenay Rockies to experience their raw and refreshing natural beauty. Cranbrook is a particularly idyllic base where you can enjoy whitewater rafting on the St. Mary River in the warmer months, admire the golden crisp of leaves in autumn or marvel at blankets of wildflowers in spring.

And here you'll have completed your epic journey along Rainforest to Rockies.

Osoyoos (Destination BC/Andrew Strain)

Osoyoos (Destination BC/Andrew Strain)

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