Caravaca on foot: A full guide to walking the Region of Murcia’s Camino de Levante
Get your feet on the ground in Murcia this Holy Jubilee Year by following the Camino de Levante
Spain’s famed pilgrimage route is the Camino de Santiago, but another, lesser-known camino is gaining attention this year. The Camino de Levante is an alternative trail, part of which winds through the striking region of Murcia to the charming city of Caracava de la Cruz. Caracava was declared a Holy City by Pope John Paul II in 1998 (alongside cities including Rome and Santiago de Compostela), and hosts a jubilee every seven years. This draws thousands of pilgrims to see the Holy Cross, believed to hold a fragment of Christ’s cross. The Camino de Levante allows walkers – religious or not – to soak up the glorious nature, fascinating culture, delicious gastronomy, and historical significance of the Murcia region. Divided into five manageable sections over 120km, you’ll be following in the footsteps of those who have trod this path for over eight centuries. So step forward, and start the journey….
Stage 1: Orihuela – Murcia: along the banks of the River Segura
Distance: 24 km
Walking time: 6 hours
Cycling time: 2 hours 30 minutes
Begin your journey in the Alicante region at Orihuela, a small town located at the feet of the Sierra de Orihuela mountains. Explore its Gothic El Salvador cathedral, the striking Iglesia de las Santas Justa y Rufina, and the former house of celebrated poet Miguel Hernández. After absorbing some of the spiritual atmosphere, follow the signposted route into Murcia, where you’ll start to follow the River Segura, vital for irrigation; you’ll spot the important Tajo-Segura water-supply canal shortly after passing the small town of Beniel. Then you’ll make your way to Murcia itself, a handsome, university city with an ornate cathedral, set on the vast Plaza Cardenal Belluga. If you’re lucky enough to be undertaking the Camino de Levante around Easter or Christmas, you’ll witness lively, colourful fiestas and parades, while the Moors and Christians festival, which takes place in September, involves marching bands, camels, and stilt-walkers.
Stage 2: Murcia – Alguazas: a walk through the ‘huerta’ arable farmland of Murcia
Distance: 26 km
Walking time: 6 hours 30 minutes
Cycling time: 2 hours 30 minutes
During this stage, hikers will discover why Murcia is known as ‘Europe’s orchard’; surrounded by the Huerta de Murcia, a valuable ecosystem, the city has a long-held agricultural tradition, producing fruit, vegetables, and flowers. The first part of this route follows the Malecón, a promenade located on the right bank of the Segura River, then you’ll head towards the Rueda de la Ñora, a large, preserved water wheel which has become the emblem of the village of La Ñora. This, and its aqueduct, represents one of the most treasured elements of the Region of Murcia, due to its scarcity: water. Then you’ll continue to Molina de Segura, home to the church of Nuestra Señora de la Consolación, where a place of worship has stood close to the river since the 15th century. Stop to pray or just to contemplate the journey so far; the next stage will see you entering the Via Verde, or ‘green route’.
Stage 3: Alguazas – Mula: castles and the “badlands”
Distance: 26 km
Walking time: 6 hours 30 minutes
Cycling time: 2 hours 30 minutes
The Vía Verde is an environmental project reconditioning the old railway line towards Alguazas into a walking and cycling route. It traverses an area of rugged landscapes and swathes of un-irrigated cropland, home to a plethora of Roman remains, such as the Roman Village of Los Villaricos, a large agricultural villa in the heart of Murcia, and the 12th Century Castle of Alcalá at La Puebla de Mula. Between Alguazas and Mula you cross the Barrancos de Gebas, also known as the ‘badlands’, a harsh and hostile lunar-like landscape formed by water erosion. An alternative route takes you to the ancient settlement of Campos del Rio, a charming village with traditional houses, then on to Albudeite, which features the church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, built – unusually – over the remains of a mosque. Finish in Mula, home to museums, mansions, and castles.
Stage 4: Mula – Bullas: between landscapes and vineyards
Distance: 21 km/13 miles
Walking time: 5 hours
Cycling time: 2 hours
This, the penultimate stage, may be shorter, but it is a little more strenuous, heading towards the vineyards of Bullas, known for producing quality DOC wines such as Monastrell red. You’ll be walking close to the Sierra Espuña Regional Park, one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Region of Murcia, and the first one endorsed by the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism (CETS). You might spot some of its wildlife en route; keep your eyes peeled for golden eagles. The route starts to climb, and become more challenging, and to avoid getting lost, always follow the Vía Verde del Noroeste. This passes through El Niño de Mula, a popular place among pilgrims to stop for a break. On finally arriving into Bullas, visit the church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario and the Museo del Vino (Wine Museum). Celebrate getting closer to your ultimate goal with a glass of the good stuff.
Stage 5: Bullas – Caravaca: the end of the Camino de Levante, the Sanctuary of the True Cross
Distance: 21 km
Walking time: 5 hours
Cycling time: 2 hours
The end is now in sight, but be warned, this last stage is the hilliest and hardest, ascending 500m. The route follows the old railway line again, first leading to the Taibilla water supply canal, then to Cristo Carrascalejo, flanked by pine woods and vineyards. This is the location of the oldest winery in Bullas, and is also of religious importance; locals hold a ceremonial foot-kissing of the figure of Christ here during Lent. Then forge onwards to hilltop Cehegín, whose characterful old quarter has been declared a historical monument. View its impressive architectural and religious heritage around the atmospheric narrow streets; nearby are the remains of Begastri, an ancient Roman city. Just four more miles, and you reach Caravaca de la Cruz. At the top of its hill is the Santuario de la Vera Cruz, where the Holy Cross resides. Make one final push to join your fellow pilgrims, and stop to marvel at this ancient relic.