The ultimate route to discover Japan’s lesser-known cities

Okayama is strategically positioned at a crossroads between the Chugoku, Kansai and San’in regions. In its central area lies Okayama Castle and Korakuen Garden, while to the south lies the Seto Inland Sea. This creates an urban space where nature and culture harmoniously coexist.

Hop on a bullet train from Osaka and you’ll reach Okayama Station in less than an hour. From there, it’s just a 5-minute ride on the streetcar to Okayama Castle, followed by a 10-minute walk from the nearest stop.

Okayama Castle, known as Crow Castle for its black walls, occupies a beautiful spot by the Asahi River. Climb up to its donjon, and you’ll be greeted with sweeping views across the city and over to Kōrakuen. Linked to the castle grounds by Tsukimi-bashi (“Moon-Viewing Bridge”), Kōrakuen is considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens. It was laid out in the 1680s, and has all the features you’d expect from that period – a vast pond filled with colourful koi fish, groves of elegantly pruned blossoming trees, and the seamless incorporation of surrounding scenery into the garden design. In the garden, you’ll find lush green lawns, tea plantations, and even a birdhouse for the endangered Japanese crane, Tancho.

About 17 minutes west of Okayama Station by train, followed by a 10-minute walk from the nearest station, lies one of Okayama’s most beautiful sights: Kibitsujinja Shrine.

This vast wooded shrine complex, parts of which date back to 1357, is a beautiful place to wander and you can experience unique Shintō rituals here too. In the Narukama Ritual, a Shinto priest and Asome attendant heat a cauldron over a fire, and its unusual roaring sounds are used for divination.

Being so close to the Seto Inland Sea, Okayama is well-known for its seafood. Hamoji, near the station, serves sushi made with fresh, locally caught fish.

Among them, one dish that particularly stands out is Bara-zushi, a unique dish to the region and beloved as a local delicacy that’s beautifully arranged with seafood and seasonal vegetables. Bara-zushi in Okayama is commonly enjoyed on special occasions. Another famous gourmet dish from Okayama is the Demiglace Katsu-don, a pork cutlet topped with demi-glace sauce. It’s a popular local dish, with each establishment serving up unique flavours.

In Okayama, head to a restaurant called Nomura, the birthplace of the Demiglace Katsu-don. The original owner of the restaurant first learned how to make demi-glace while working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, but as the recipe was intended for Western cuisine, he tailored the flavour and texture for a more Japanese palette, better paired with white rice. Demiglace Katsu-don is a delicious local flavour you won’t want to miss.

Next, get to know Hiroshima, which hosted the G7 Summit in 2023.

Okonomiyaki is one of the popular dishes in Hiroshima. There are two types of okonomiyaki: Kansai style where the batter and cabbage are mixed together before cooking; and Hiroshima style, where the batter, cabbage, and ingredients are layered and cooked one by one. Near Hiroshima Station (about 35 minutes by Shinkansen from Okayama), there’s an okonomiyaki experience studio called “OKOSTA,” where you can make and eat Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki yourself. You can choose from various types of okonomiyaki, such as squid tempura, green onion, and tomato cheese. There is no greater pleasure than eating homemade okonomiyaki!

After enjoying the hands-on lunch experience, take the bus or tram to Hiroshima-jō. The five-storey keep is surrounded by a moat, and gives superb views of the city, divided by several meandering rivers.

Like so much of Hiroshima, the castle is a twentieth-century reproduction. Around fifteen minutes’ walk away, you can see the Atomic Bomb Dome, standing as a poignant reminder just 160m from the hypocentre of the first atomic bomb dropped in human history on 6th August 1945. It serves as a powerful symbol advocating for the abolition of nuclear weapons and promoting lasting peace.

Across the river from the dome is the Peace Memorial Park. Here you’ll find the sobering Peace Memorial Museum, which explains not only the bomb’s short- and long-term effects, but also how nuclear weapons have proliferated since then. Take some time afterwards to contemplate the memorials in the serene, leafy park, and consider the aim to which the city recommits itself each year: a world without war.

Given its history, many people expect Hiroshima to feel somewhat bleak. The truth couldn’t be more different: the city today feels dynamic and welcoming, with its lively restaurants and bars, trundling streetcars and active arts scene. It’s also a great place to see a performance of Hiroshima Kagura, a traditional performing art which tells ancient stories through bright costumes, eye-catching masks, dramatic dancing and live music. It’s exciting and colourful, a memorable way to spend an evening.

Base yourself at the Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima, just south of the city, for easy access to the sights and spectacular views over the Seto Inland Sea. The hotel even has a direct high-speed boat link with UNESCO-listed Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima.

A scenic boat ride from Hiroshima is Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku. Just like Okayama and Hiroshima, you can get around by tram. Matsuyama Castle stands tall in the centre of the city and is known for its cherry blossom viewing spot, but you can also enjoy the scenery during all four seasons, such as the fresh greenery in summer and the crisp leaves in autumn. The view from the hiking trail, ropeway and lift to the castle is beautiful, and best of all is the spectacular view of the Seto Inland Sea from the castle tower.

Near Matsuyama Castle, there’s the Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street, where you’ll find shops selling traditional crafts, fun eateries offering local specialties like Jakoten (made by deep-frying minced fish), and specialty stores serving Ehime’s famous sea bream rice.

One of the stores is Kadoya Okaido Store, which is renowned for its Uwajima sea bream rice, a dish featuring raw egg mixed with broth, sashimi in sauce, and white rice. The combination of flavours and textures is delightful, with the sea bream sashimi bursting with freshness. At the Smiley Ehime Official Souvenir Shop, you can even experience mandarin orange juice flowing directly from a tap – an unforgettable experience unique to the area.

After exploring the Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street, take a short 10-minute bus ride to Dogo, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring resorts, known for its luxurious ryokan and ties to the imperial family. Consider staying at Kowakuen Haruka, offering hot springs, city views, and a blend of Japanese and Western-style rooms. The view of Dogo Onsen Honkan and the shopping district from the upper floors is truly breathtaking.

Dogo Onsen Honkan, believed to have inspired the bathhouse in Spirited Away, is Japan’s oldest public bathhouse. Don’t miss the Botchan Karakuri Clock, featuring characters from Soseki Natsume’s novel Botchan, transformed into small dolls that appear at set times to a cheerful tune, based on the Shinrokaku motif.

Just twenty minutes’ walk away is Isite-ji Temple, the 51st temple on the Shikoku 88-temples pilgrimage. Visitors can also enjoy a unique experience by dressing in traditional pilgrim costumes, including the traditional Sugegasa hats, and participating in the Shikoku pilgrimage, gaining worldwide attention. The temple boasts six nationally important cultural properties, including the main hall and a three-story pagoda. After your visit, be sure to try the yakimochi, or grilled rice cakes, known as Oyaki, sold around the temple – their moderate sweetness is the perfect post-temple treat.

Two and a half hours by train from Matsuyama, laidback Takamatsu invites you to slow down and enjoy the sea air, perhaps strolling to the red glass lighthouse or relaxing at a coastal café.

Tamamo Park, located in the heart of Takamatsu City, is a park developed on the site of Takamatsu Castle, known as one of Japan’s three great seaside castles. The castle’s moat draws in seawater, and the opening and closing of the sluice gates regulates the difference in tidal levels. Because seawater is drawn in, you can see marine fish such as sea bream, mullet and puffer fish in the moat. Additionally, weather permitting, you can experience feeding sea bream from a traditional Japanese boat. Within the park, there are historical buildings such as the Hiunkaku, designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, which has also been used as a location for several films. Seasonal events are also held in the park, offering unique experiences throughout the year.

Located about a 10-minute train ride from Tamamo Park, Ritsurin Garden is one of Japan’s most important formal gardens – and at 16 hectares, certainly its largest (including Mt. Shiun in the background, it’s roughly 75 hectares in total!) You could easily spend hours seeking out its most beautiful vistas, from a teahouse overlooking a lake to perfectly manicured, centuries-old pine trees.

The local speciality is sanuki udon – thick, chewy noodles served with a light, fragrant broth. There are plenty of places to try it, but for something special take a short trip east to visit Goyashiki. This atmospheric restaurant is housed in a 250-year-old residence, nationally designated as a Tangible Cultural Property. You can enjoy top-tier handmade udon, à la carte dishes and kaiseki.